Shaytan Jilga tract («Plato Demonov»)
The Shaitan Jilga tract (also known as Shaitan-Jiga, «Plateau of Demons», «Devil's Helmet» or the Kyrkchilla area) is a unique natural monument and geological phenomenon in the spurs of the Zarafshan range, located about 30–35 km south of Samarkand near the village of Karatepa (Urgut district). The tract is a high-mountain granite plateau strewn with giant boulders and outliers of bizarre shapes resembling monsters frozen in a dance, skulls, giant mushrooms and pointed battle helmets. This place is shrouded in folk legends about evil spirits and ancient rituals, and gained worldwide fame in pop culture thanks to Sergei Lukyanenko's novel «The Last Watch»
Duration
60 min
About
Origin of names and toponymy
Shaytan-Dzhiga / Shaytan Zhiga: Literally translated as "Devil's Helmet" or "Satan's Crown/Sultan" (dzhiga is a plume, a precious ornament on the battle helmet of Eastern warriors or the turban of a ruler). The name was given because of the characteristic peaked conical shape of many granite monoliths.
Shaytan Dzhilga: An alternative translation is "Devil's Ravine" or "Demon's Channel," referring to the canyon of the tract carved by sai and fissures.
Kyrkchilla: Denotes a sacred place of seclusion (chilla is a 40-day fast and solitary prayer of dervishes and Sufis far from worldly vanity). In the rock crevices and grottoes of the plateau, wandering hermits found shelter for spiritual practices.
«Plato Demonov»: A popular tourist name that took hold because of the silhouettes of the rocks resembling fantastic monsters.
Geological nature of the landscape
Unlike most limestone mountains in the vicinity of Samarkand, the Karatepa tract is composed of layers of ancient gray granites:
Aeolian and temperature weathering: Over millions of years, sharp temperature fluctuations, winter frosts, rains and winds carved deep furrows, niches and through-holes (tafoni) in the pliable granite layers.
Sculptural forms: Among the hundreds of remnant rocks, tourists clearly distinguish figures of frozen bears, birds of prey, human profiles, giant skulls and labyrinths of "dancing" boulders up to 5–10 meters high.
Flora and seasonality: In summer the plateau is scorched by the sun and has an ochre-gray austere appearance. In spring (in April and May) springs break through between the stones, and the hills are covered with emerald grass, wild tulips, irises and eremurus.
Myths, folklore and literary trace
Pagan sanctuaries and legends: Local traditions link the plateau with the pre-Islamic cults of fire-worshippers and shamans. According to one legend, a battle of spirits took place here, as a result of which the defeated demons were turned into motionless stones by divine power.
«Posledniy Dozor»: Russian science fiction writer Sergei Lukyanenko immortalized the tract in the novel «Posledniy Dozor». According to the plot of the book, on the «Plato Demonov» near Samarkand a battle of Light and Darkness took place, where the ancient mage Rustam used a spell that folded space and turned the army of Darkness into stone statues.
Tourism and visiting
The plateau attracts lovers of hiking, trekking, geotourism and photographers. The most striking shots are obtained at dawn and before sunset, when the rays of the low sun lengthen the shadows and create the illusion of revived giants.
From the heights a circular panorama opens onto the Karatepa reservoir, the foothills of the Zarafshan range and the serpentine road to the Takhtakaracha pass.
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